North Texas Daily

Denton Eats: All About Mac

Denton Eats: All About Mac

Denton Eats: All About Mac
September 30
15:31 2013

Christina Ulsh / Senior Staff Eater

New name, same awful mac and cheese

Tumbleweed blows across the vacant restaurant. A gust of wind makes the empty tip jar whistle. The desolate macaroni eatery foreshadows an impending meal that failed to impress.

The macaroni at All About Mac serves more of an aesthetic purpose than a culinary experience.

As a “macaroni and cheese emporium,” the selection of atypical mac and cheese combinations is satisfying. The dishes vary in meats and sauces, fancy cheeses and garnishes. Everything sounds gourmet.

The dish portions come in “snack” size, too much, and overboard. Hopefully, anybody ordering either of the larger portions is sharing.

The South of the Border sounded uncommon enough as far as macaroni goes. It included cheddar sauce, beef chorizo, roasted jalapeños, corn, diced tomatoes, shredded cheddar and cilantro.

The SOB resembled a (Tex) Mexican entree perfectly. At first glance, it didn’t look like macaroni at all. The beef and vegetables were piled in the center and tortilla chips lined the outer rim of the skillet. It had the essence of a taco bowl.

As promptly as the noodle-filled skillet arrived, it was surprisingly lukewarm.

The chips were stale. The beef chorizo might as well have been plain ground beef.

While it is not necessary to put an entire ear of corn in the dish, it still could have used more than three kernels.

There was the ideal amount of jalapeños and the kick wasn’t overwhelming or too faint.

Even though it is all about mac here, one would expect cheese to still be an important aspect of the recipe. The cheddar sauce needed a creamier quality.

Sitting on the patio, customers get front row seats to watch Fry Street bar crawlers and empty plant holders. They can also ponder whether they should have wandered to a neighboring dining establishment.

 The potato skin mac features a blend of bacon, red potatoes, sour cream and green onion in a bed of cheddar macaroni. -Feature photo courtesy of Hannah Hansen

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